| |
Robes for Tibetan officials
in old times were very much influenced by the Han culture.
Starting from the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the ties between
the Han and Tibetan nationalities gradually became close and
the advanced production technique of the Central Plain promoted
the development of textile industry of Tibet which had direct
bearing on the costume.
At the same time, big quantities of textiles were brought
to Tibet from the Central Plain, which played a positive role
in improving the texture and pattern designs of Tibetan costume.
The cultural exchanges also helped to improve the technology
of Tibetan textile industry. The close relation between the
Tibetan Nationality and other nationalities of the country
further developed from the Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368).
Some officials in the local Tibetan Government starting from
Phags-pa became related by marriage with the royal family
of the Yuan Dynasty and the exchanges of silk, fur and woolen
cloth were even more frequent. The costume and ornaments of
high-ranking Tibetan officials and nobles of this period were
either imitating or given by the Yuan dynasty.
Before the democratic reform in 1959, the robes for officials
of the local Tibetan Government were different in texture
and patterns which showed the difference in rank. In terms
of texture and patterns, there were the boa-design brocade
robes, cunzhabaimajiajia (lotus-phoenix-design brocade robe)
and cunzhahuaerbaima (lotus-design Mongolian brocade robe).
The boa-design brocade robe used yellow, red, blue, green,
white and purple brocade as the key note and had patterns
of dragon, water, fish, cloud and mountain. Thry were for
officials above the 4th rank when they were granted an audience
with the prince, Dalai Lama or head of Lamaism or when a major
festival was celebrated or a big ceremony was held.
The lotus-phoenix robe and the lotus robe were for officials
above the 4th rank to wear on the New Year or a holiday. Besides,
there were the brocade robes with round flower patterns and
qujin robes, which were also precious articles of clothing
in Lhasa and Xigaze.
Noble dames also had ranks. The elderly wives of officials
of the 4th rank were called lcam-mo-sku-zhabs. The wives of
the close relatives of Dalai Lama were called lha-lcam-sku-zhabs.
The wives of other officials were called lcam-chung-sku-zhabs.
There were mainly two kinds of robes for these noble ladies
and their daughters: phyu-pa-phu-med (sleeveless robe) and
phyu-pa-phu-yod (robe with sleeves), all made of tshon-khra-can
(embroidered brocade). The underwear for women were called
vog-vjug, with loose collar, short length and long sleeves
which usually extended a foot beyond the fingers.
Historically, a hat was the symbol of a man's position, learning
and property. It is true of the Tibetans as well. The main
symbol for the ranks of the local officials in Tibet was the
decoration on the zhua-mo-lcags-mdav (round hat): pearl for
the first rank, gem for the second rank, coral for the third
rank and turquoise for the fourth rank.
There were no legally-instituted differences for the headwear
of ladies, but there were customary differences. For example,
the headgar for hereditary noble ladies in the front and rear
regions of Tibet was called mu-tig-spa-phrug (pearl decorated
headgear), which ordinary noble ladies were not allowed to
wear.
Ordinary noble ladies, including wives of big businessmen,
could only wear byu-ru-spa-phrug spa-phrug (coral decorated
headgear). As to A-sgor (big earring), gave (Buddhist box
hung at the chest) and precious necklaces, even ordinary women
could wear them and their textures might be different because
of their economic status.
|
|